Gaui NX4 parts are now online!

Well it's taken me a good while to sit down and get it all done, but I'm pleased to announce that all the Gaui NX4 parts are now up on the website and available for purchase.

Enjoy fellas!

Shipments processed: RC Logger

RC Logger goodies have just arrived. More Digital Pitch Gauge 2's, more RC Eye Ones, and a couple of new goodies. Check out our new bits to find out what's in.

Christmas Trading.

We will continue to ship orders out through the holiday season where possible. Tentatively, the days orders will be shipped are:

- Monday 24th
- Thursday 27th
- Friday 28th
- January 3rd

...and from there, normality shall resume.

Timmy's going away for a few weeks, so forget about him, he's dead to us.

Have a Happy Christmas and New Year everybody!

Update on the 10/10/10 Sale

So with Christmas right upon us and everything getting chaotic, our cut-over evenings for the 10/10/10 sale have slipped somewhat. To correct this, I've decided to slash 10% of all 10 of the product lines until the end of the sale period. Have at thee!

The following lines are now all on special:

- Everything Align
- RCBooya
- Beam
- RCScrewz
- Galaxy Batteries
- NextD Rave 450 and ENV parts
- Custom Heli Parts upgrades
- Everything QuickUK

No need for coupon codes, all discount prices are visible to all. This sale is on until the 17th of January (10 weeks from the initial start date). Weeeeeeeeeeeee!

Week 5 of the RCBits 10/10/10 Sale!

We've entered our fifth week of our 10/10/10 Sale. This week we've got 10% off all Beam E4 and Beam AvantGarde parts.

More Beam parts will be coming to us in the near future, there's a revision to the E4 as well as the AvantGarde so now is the ideal time to stock up on some spare parts for your current model so you can get through the flying season with minimal downtime. Hooray!

Gaui NX4 and X5 Pre-Christmas Specials

As a lead up to Christmas we've got a couple of great deals with the NX4 and X5 Gaui kits on offer right now.

The NX4 Combo includes an Engine, Pipe and Gryphon Push-button glow device for a smooth $675.

The Gaui X5 combo A (airframe + Mini V-bar) now comes with a FREE set of Edge 523mm FBL blades.

We've only got a couple of each available, so its first in best dressed on these sweet deals.

3DX China 2012 - Pictures and Videos

Well last weekend I happened to be in the neighbourhood in China and decided to pop by the 3DX China event to give some moral support to Marco and Vas.

Whilst I was there, I took a bunch of photos and videos of the event and have just finished getting them online.

You can see all the youtube videos here.

And for the photos - check out our facebook page, or if you want to view the 3DX China album itself, click here.

Just as a sampler, here's my favourite photo from the event. Let me introduce to you, Tony Tseung the wifi hotspot.

Gaui NX4 Kits are here!

We've got our kits this morning and we're prepping them to be sent out to all customers this week, the plan is to get them in your hands pretty much on the exact release date (which is next Monday by the way). We have a few of each kit left in stock, so if you're keen to be one of the first with this screaming little machine at your field, now is the chance to get one from the first batch.

We've got the accompanying engines, pipes, governors and other bits to go with it - just pick yourself a FBL system and some servos that suit your fancy and get into it!

Gaui Field Reps

Just thought I should make a public announcement to introduce to you the Gaui Field reps we have on board for the coming year. Some of them you might know already! they join our existing team of field reps and team pilots

So, without further ado may I introduce to you (in alphabetical order of surname)

Charlie (Chucka) Lewis

Chucka is an existing RCBits field rep but has stepped up to become one of our Gaui field reps after falling in love with his X7. Chucka was a frequent attendee at most funflies this year, but has spent the last couple of months working away in the mines so he can take most of next year off to continue doing what he loves - flying choppers!

Jimmy Searl

Hailing from Nowra NSW, this young bloke has been popping up at a few events in NSW and the ACT and has been flying the socks off his lil 450 and 700 (which mind you, is now retired for a Gaui X7). We look forwarding to seeing much more from this chap next year. Watchout!

Vas Serovski

Most of you should all know our good mate Vasko. I like to call him the Gaui tech-man - if there's a new upgrade part for any Gaui helicopter, he knows about it. If there's a build issue that old mate is having, Vas has already spoken to him an fixed it. Vas knows his Gaui stuff inside and out, and it is a big pleasure to have him on board as one of our field reps. He's a member of the famous SSSFA club in south Sydney, so catching up with him for a chin wag is always easy for us.

Well, that's the new additions, please give them all a warm welcome. We're all looking forward to seeing what these boys get up to at the local field and on the forums throughout this coming flying season.

How to "run in" an OS50/OS55 Engine

New engines are not ready to be thrashed in Idle Up or Stunt mode
(Also applies to old engines with a new ring/piston/liner)
A new engine needs to be put through a short and simple "run in" procedure
(The American's call this procedure "Break In" but I dislike the term "Break")
The "run in" procedure introduces new metal engine parts to each other and allows them to "mate" nicely
OS engines require minimal "run in" time - you can complete the process in 3 flights

Generally new engines come with oil over the engine internals
If your engine has been sitting unused for a long period of time and is rather "dry"
a nice thing to do is put a few drops of fuel into the engine via the glow plug or exhaust.
This provides lubrication during cranking and starting...

The OS55 has two needles and a screw
The needle above the fuel inlet hose is the main needle (also called the high speed needle)
The other needle is the mid range neddle

The idle mixture is a screw (which drives an elipical cam)
The idle mixture should almost always be left at the stock setting
which is the slot in the screw is in line with the bolt holding the brass plate
(There are times when it's advantageous to have the idle mixture a tad rich)

The main needle controls total fuel flow into the carburator
You mainly tune this needle based on the engine needs and performance in idle up (stunt mode)
This is why it's also called the high speed needle
At lower engine rpm/speed the fuel mixture is better controlled by the mid/idle settings
But you have to get the main needle right first
Changing the main needle setting alters the fuel delivered to the mid & idle circuits
If you don't follow a process you can end up changing needles forever and getting frustrated
Get the main right, then fine tune the mid - seldom need to mess with the idle

The carburator settings for initial run in are the default settings in the manual
For the OS55 this is 2 turns out from fully screwed in - on both the mid and high needles
(This is likely to be excessively rich - 1.5 turns on the mid may be better)

Gently screw the needles in by hand until they are closed
Do not use force, that will damage the needle tip and alter tuning and performance
Then rotate the outer keeper until it's in line with the slot in the needle
This is used as your tuning reference point
Now turn the needles out, with every half turn, the needle slot will align with the keeper
This makes it easy to spot 1/4 and 1/2 turn needle positions

When running in an engine you do not want the engine to be "slobbering rich" (like Bill Gates)
This will prevent the engine of getting up to a useful operating temperature
and make operating the engine/model very difficult
The general rule of thumb is to run the main needle either 1/4 or 1/2 turn richer than normal

Running in an engine requires the engine operating at a nice temperature
This temperature will be lower than normal but not excessively cool
The lower temperature is achieved via slower RPM and lower workload
Running in an engine requires a mild and varying workload (varying RPM also helps)
Making the engine do work puts pressure on the ring against the bore
This encourages the new metal parts to mate and get used to doing useful work
We do not want to subject the engine to full throttle during run in
We do not want to run the engine at excessive RPM (stay under 2000 rpm headspeed)

The run in process is also about putting the engine through heat cycles
Don't immediately refuel and fly again, let the engine cool down

I like to do the very first flight on a TX throttle curve rather than a governor
This enables more RPM variation to be used (the governor will run a constant RPM)
When running in an OS50 or OS55 I tend to use the following throttle curve: 0 28 38 48 100
After the run in process when you've leaned the engine out this should be reduced to 0 25 35 45 100

So, you're ready to start your new or rebuilt engine
(Make sure you have a new OS8 or Enya3 glow plug)
If you have a pumped or regulated engine it may be helpful to
use full throttle with the glow plug OFF and crank the engine over
This will build up pressure in the tank and bring the fuel up to the carb
(This is where we need that internal lubrication!)
Then close the throttle, turn the glow plug on, crank and start the engine

Most likely the engine will start and then die immediately
due to being new and rich and the idle trim not being right
Increase the idle trim and restart the engine

The next most likely problem
is the engine dying as soon as the glow plug power turns off
That's due to the engine being very rich and snuffing out the glow plug
Increasing the idle trim should help
alternatively close the main needle by 1/8 or 1/4 of a turn

Your next problem is spooling up
With a rich setting this adversely effects the low speed performance
and makes spooling up difficult, the engine may cut
Just restart and spool up slowly,
once you get past the ~20% stick position it should spoolup fine

Take off into a hover and let the engine and carb warm up for 20 to 30 seconds
If the heli is wobbling or nodding that means the headspeed is too low
Raise your throttle curve a little to address this
There should be plenty of exhaust smoke
(unless you are using thick oil like CoolPower Green)

Next go into forward flight and do simple figure 8 circuits
You can gently build up quick forward speed and use a significant banking angle
Don't use full collective however, ~80% should be your maximum
Mild stall turns are also useful for putting pressure on the ring
Mild climbouts are also useful (do not bog the engine)
Just fly around putting mild and varying load on the engine

At the end of the first flight let the engine cool down
If your fuel tank is exhaust pressurised always refuel immediately
This pushes the hot and toxic exhaust gas out of the tank and makes the clunk line last longer

When you start the engine for the 2nd time you will notice that it starts easier and is more willing to idle
This is a clear indication that the run in procedure is working correctly
You will notice a further improvement in flight 3

In the 2nd flight you do more of the same, perhaps applying a little more load this time
Again, after the flight, let the engine cool down.

In the 3rd flight you can go into a idle 1 (stunt 1) with a reduced headspeed setting
Something in the 1800 rpm to 1900 rpm range would be good
Again, fly around making the engine do useful work with a varying workload
At this stage you can certainly do extended climb outs (longer/higher)
but don't use full collective (perhaps ~90% now)
Again, after the flight, let the engine cool down.

Once these three flights have been completed you can return to normal operations
You will re-tune the engine for normal operations (see how to tune article - coming)
You will lower your normal mode throttle curve
(because the engine will rev harder when you lean out)
You can use idle up (stunt mode) and go 3D